We love the Shinjuku outpost of Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten, an old-school eel restaurant that’s been in operation since 1893. The Isetan branch is modern and comfortable, but keeps the grilled eel standard as high as the original. Plus, there are English menus!
Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten Isetan Shinjuku - image © Florentyna Leow
Grilled unagi, or freshwater eel, isn’t the cheapest meal around town, but you do get what you pay for. On average, you’re looking at a minimum of JPY3000 for a generously portioned unagi rice bowl. Shinjuku has a number of tasty unagi restaurants. One we like is Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten’s outpost in Isetan Shinjuku.
Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten Isetan Shinjuku - image © Florentyna Leow
Located on the 7th floor of this department store, this branch is spacious and comfortable. You won’t spend ages queuing here, unlike other smaller unagi restaurants around town! The eel here is grilled over charcoal in the traditional fashion, and is deliciously smoky without tasting like it’s been dropped in an ashtray. In true Kanto-style, it’s more tender than it is crispy, and seasoned thoroughly with a moreish sweet-salty tare sauce.
Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten Isetan Shinjuku - image © Florentyna Leow
The classic way to eat this is simply over rice as an unagi donburi. Besides the standard una-don, though, another great way to eat grilled eel is Nagoya-style. This is known as hitsumabushi. It is a souped up – literally – version of unagi donburi, where you eat it in four styles in the same meal. You can eat it as is; then add some condiments; then add condiments and broth to eat in the ochazuke (tea rice) style; and finally, finish by eating in the style you enjoyed best. That’s the simplest way to explain it. Don’t worry if you’re not going to remember this: they’ll remind you again when you order!
Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten Isetan Shinjuku - image © Florentyna Leow
Hitsumabushi supposedly originated around the end of the Meiji period, when they began serving leftover pieces of eel on bowls of cooked rice (o-hitsu). There are numerous origin stories, but a popularly accepted explanation is that “mabushi” comes from “mamusu” or “to steam completely.”
This branch of Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten has English-language menus, which makes it pretty tourist-friendly. The table seats don’t hurt, either. Lunches start at around JPY2000 and upwards.
For more Tokyo unagi choices, see our Best Unagi in Tokyo page.
English name:
Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten Isetan Shinjuku
Japanese name:
つきじ宮川本廛 伊勢丹新宿店
English address:
7F Isetan Shinjuku Store, 3-14-1 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo, 160-0022
Japanese address:
〒160-0022 東京都新宿区新宿3-14-1 伊勢丹新宿店7F
Opening hours:
11am-10pm
Price:
Non-smoking section:
Completely Non-Smoking
Reservations:
Possible
Nearest Transport:
Subway: Directly connected to exit B3 or B4 or B5 of Shinjuku-sanchome Station on the Tokyo Metro Marunouchi and Fukutoshin lines, and Toei Shinjuku line.
Train: 5-minute walk from the east exit of Shinjuku Station.
Telephone:
+81-3-3352-4989
Website:
Official website (Japanese)
Customer Reviews:
Read customer reviews of Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten Isetan Shinjuku on TripAdvisor.
Near To Here:
Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten Isetan Shinjuku is located in Tokyo's Shinjuku district. See our complete list of things to do in Shinjuku, including places to eat, nightlife and places to stay.
More Tokyo Restaurant Recommendations:
See all unagi restaurants we recommend on our Best Unagi in Tokyo page and get the complete list for all cuisines on our Best Tokyo Restaurants page.
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