Truly Tokyo

A Tokyo Travel Guide

Shinjuku

The pulsing heart of Tokyo, Shinjuku is probably the place you're imagining when you think of Tokyo: bright neon lights, crowds, tall buildings, bustling streets and energy galore.

Crowds pass through the neon-lit Kabukicho in the Shinjuku district
Kabukicho in the Shinjuku district: Sean Pavone / Shutterstock.com

Shinjuku is one of the most vibrant "nodes" of Tokyo. It's useful to think of two different Shinjukus: East Shinjuku and West Shinjuku. On the east side of Shinjuku Station, you'll find all the neon lights, crowds, restaurants and bars that you associate with modern Tokyo (along with a pretty seedy entertainment district, Kabukicho), while on the west side of Shinjuku Station, there are some of the city's tallest high-rise buildings, government offices and hotels. It's a lot of fun to check out both.

Things To Do And See In Shinjuku

West Shinjuku (Shinjuku Nishi-Guchi)
  • Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices (office tower/observation deck)
    The observations decks located on the 45th floors of these two towers offer some of the best views of the city. On clear days you can see Mt Fuji from here, along with the entire city of Tokyo spread out beneath you. Best of all, they're free! You board the elevators on the basement floor of the building.
  • Omoide Yokocho (old school restaurant lane)
    This tiny alley on the northwest side of Shinjuku Station is a great place for a taste of old Tokyo. It looks like I imagine much of Tokyo did right after the war. The easiest way to get there is to get to the north end of the station on street level where Shinjuku-dori runs under the train tracks – the entrance is just on the west side of the underpass.
East Shinjuku (Shinjuku Hagashi-Guchi)
  • Shinjuku Gyoen Garden (park/garden)
    This superb park/garden is overlooked by many visitors to Tokyo. That's their loss, because it's a great place for a stroll or a picnic. It's very close to Shinjuku-gyoenmae subway station. This is a great place to see the cherry blossoms in the spring.
  • Kabukicho (nightlife district/red light district)
    This seething nightlife/dining/red light district northeast of Shinjuku Station is alternately fascinating and repelling. It's filled with host and hostess bars, sex shops, dodgy "massage" shops and all kinds of restaurants and bars. It's also filled with all kinds of drunk Japanese businessmen and a good selection of the world's riff-raff. This place is great if you're in the mood, but don't bring the kids!
  • Robot Restaurant (over-the-top cabaret)
    Tokyo's infamous Robot Restaurant in Kabukicho is an ultra-flashy, hyper-tacky robot-themed cabaret show. It features every single Japanese cultural motif you can think of, amplified and decked out in obnoxious colours and lights.
  • Hanazono-jinja Shrine (Shinto shrine)
    This spacious shrine in the crazy entertainment district of East Shinjuku offers a nice reprieve from the madness of the city. It's a nice place to catch your wits during a tour of the area.
  • Fire Museum (fire engine museum)
    A bit of a hike east of Shinjuku, near the Yotsuya-sanchome subway station, this museum of fire engines and firefighting is great for kids and adults who are interested in this sort of thing.
  • Tokyo Toy Museum (toy museum/play space)
    Not far from the Yotsuya-sanchome subway station, this place is more of a play space for children than a proper museum. And that's a good thing, because your kids will love this place. It's a great rainy day activity.
Recommended Tokyo Hotels In Shinjuku
Park HyattPark HyattLuxuryMore Info
Century SouthernCentury SouthernMid RangeMore Info
Hotel BlossomHotel BlossomMid RangeMore Info
Sotetsu Fresa Inn Higashi ShinjukuSotetsu Fresa InnBudgetMore Info

Places To Eat In Shinjuku

West Shinjuku (Shinjuku Nishi-Guchi)
  • Fuunji (ramen)
    This fantastic ramen place serves great ramen and tsukemen (noodles on the side ramen). It's extremely popular, so try to go outside of peak hours. This is a good spot for lunch or dinner in West Shinjuku.
East Shinjuku (Shinjuku Hagashi-Guchi)
    If you want a huge selection of places to eat, head up to the restaurant floors of the Takashimaya Times Square Complex. They're on the 12th, 13th and 14th floors. You'll find all the main Japanese specialties here, along with lots of international cuisine. And, all of the places here are easy to enter.

  • Din Tai Fung (dim sum)
    I'm a huge fan of the savory dumplings and excellent fried rice and noodles at this Taiwanese dim sum restaurant. It's on the 12th floor of the Takashimaya Times Square complex. Go outside of peak times or wait on line.
  • Imahan (shabu shabu/sukiyaki)
    On the 14th floor of the Takashimaya Times Square complex, this place serves mouth-watering shabu shabu and sukiyaki made with ultra-tender beef. It's highly recommended for carnivores!
  • AIN SOPH. journey Shinjuku
    A vegan meal in Shinjuku has never been easier to find. Just head to AIN SOPH. journey Shinjuku in Shinjuku-Sanchome! The food is decent, but their desserts are even better – we recommend the pancakes and chocolate gateau.
  • Toritama Kagurazaka
    For the finest in head-to-tail chicken eating, Toritama Kagurazaka is one of the best. The Shinjuku branch is an outpost of their original Shirokane restaurant. It’s almost as good, and as a bonus, is way more English-friendly.
  • Tsunahachi (tempura)
    This old-school tempura place in the middle of the East Shinjuku shopping district is popular with both locals and tourists for their excellent and reasonably priced tempura.
  • Tenkuni (tempura)
    On the 14th floor of the Takashimaya Times Square complex, this is an excellent spot for delicious tempura.
  • Tokyo Mentsudan
    Want Sanuki-style udon without the queues at Kanda’s Maruka? Hit up Tokyo Mentsudan in Shinjuku for chewy udon noodles you won’t need to wait several hours for. Cheap, cheerful, delicious. What more could you ask for?
  • Udon Shin
    Popular with locals and tourists alike, Udon Shin is a little retaurant in Shinjuku serving some of the best wheat noodles in the area. Their signature ‘carbonara udon’ is highly swoon-worthy, but the tempura udon is pretty good too.
  • Nakajima (various Japanese)
    In a basement restaurant out in Shinjuku Sanchome, this fine restaurant serves well-prepared Japanese food for surprisingly reasonable prices. They specialize in sardines prepared a variety of ways.
  • Brooklyn Parlor (bar with burgers and fries)
    This coffee shop/bar/burger joint is a good place for a bit of American food when out in Shinjuku Sanchome.
  • Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten Isetan Shinjuku
    We love the Shinjuku outpost of Tsukiji Miyagawa Honten, an old-school eel restaurant that’s been in operation since 1893. The Isetan branch is modern and comfortable, but keeps the grilled eel standard as high as the original. Plus, there are English menus!
  • Shousuke (yakitori/izakaya)
    This popular yakitori/izakaya in Shinjuku Sanchome serves some creative twists on the usual izakaya fare.
  • Jiromaru
    A Korean barbeque beef restaurant serving great wagyu without breaking the bank? That’s exactly what Jiromaru in Shinjuku is – a standing yakiniku bar that’s as cheap as chips. They sell different cuts of wagyu by the piece, so solo diners needn’t be left out of this beefy experience.
  • Kagurazaka Ishikawa
    With impeccable seasonal kaiseki cooking that both tastes and looks like works of art, it’s small wonder that Kagurazaka Ishikawa is the go-to for many of the upper set in Tokyo.

Eat Like A Local In Shinjuku

Want an even more adventurous eating experience where you mingle with Shinjuku locals? Try these places

  • Funabashiya Honten
    A short walk from Shinjuku Station takes you to Funabashiya, which is the place to go for elegant, tasty tempura set meals.
  • Kabuto
    Kabuto, in Shinjuku’s Piss Alley, takes you back to 1950s Tokyo with its no-frills head-to-tail (unagi) eel dining experience.
  • Takahashi
    If you find yourself craving some delicious ramen in Shinjuku, Takahashi’s fantastically smoky ramen bowl will save your stomach and your soul.
  • Browse all Eat Like A Local In Tokyo places across the city

Luxury Hotels In Shinjuku

  • Park Hyatt Tokyo
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    This iconic hotel in a tower in West Shinjuku is one of the most stunning hotels in the city. It’s not cheap, but it’s memorable.
  • Hilton Tokyo
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    A solid, busy and large international-class hotel with all the features in West Shinjuku. Cheaper than most other luxury hotels in the city.
  • Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    Located in Bunkyo-ku, a few kms northeast of Shinjuku, this elegant hotel has European-style design and a nice Japanese garden.
  • Bellustar Tokyo
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    If you want great views and a convenient Shinjuku location without having to pay the rates of the famous luxe brands, give the Bellustar a look.

Mid-Range Hotels In Shinjuku

  • Hotel Century Southern Tower
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    Steps from Tokyo Station in West Shinjuku, this superb hotel is one of the best mid-range hotels in the city. And the views are great!
  • JR Kyushu Hotel Blossom Shinjuku
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    Super-close to Shinjuku Station in West Shinjuku, this fine hotel gets it all right. It’s one of the best hotels in this class in Tokyo.
  • Mimaru Tokyo Shinjuku West
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    The Mimaru Tokyo Shinjuku West is the best famiy hotel in Tokyo. It’s got a great location in west Shinjuku, and it’s got a variety of large rooms with simple cooking facilities and comfortable beds.
  • Hotel Gracery Shinjuku
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    A large and popular new hotel in the heart of Kabukicho in East Shinjuku, this hotel offers clean and comfortable rooms and competitive rates, all within relatively easy walking distance of Shinjuku Station.
  • Hotel Groove Shinjuku
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    The Groove Shinjuku is located in a towering building in the heart of Shinjuku’s nightlife district. It offers mid-range rates and great views over the city.
  • Shinjuku Granbell Hotel
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    This large and efficient modern business hotel on the north side of Kabukicho in East Shinjuku offers good rooms and economical rates.
  • Citadines Shinjuku Tokyo
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    This apartment-style hotel is a fair distance from the station in East Shinjuku, but the rates reflect the less-than-perfect location, so it’s a pretty good value. And subway stations are nearby.
  • Shinjuku Prince Hotel
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    Very close to Shinjuku Station in East Shinjuku, this bustling and popular business hotel offers comfortable rooms at very reasonable rates.
  • Hyatt Regency Tokyo
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    Not to be confused with the other Hyatts in Tokyo, this is a large mid-range hotel in West Shinjuku that offers decent value and a relatively convenient location.
  • Kadoya Hotel
    (View on Booking.com or Agoda.com)
    The Kadoya is a decent old-school Japanese business hotel in West Shinjuku. The rates here sometimes drop into the budget category.

Budget Hotels In Shinjuku

Shopping In Shinjuku

West Shinjuku (Shinjuku Nishi-Guchi)
  • Shinjuku West Exit Camera Town (cameras/electronics stores)
    If you're in the market for cameras, electronics, SIM cards etc, head out the west exit of Shinjuku Station and dive into this seething cauldron of neon and noise. The prices are great here – it just takes a bit of time to find what you want.
  • Odakyu Department Store (department store)
    This typical Japanese department store over the west side of Shinjuku Station is a good place for some last-minute shopping.
East Shinjuku (Shinjuku Hagashi-Guchi)
  • Takashimaya Times Square (shopping/dining complex)
    This is my favorite shopping and dining complex in all of Tokyo. Some of my favorite shops are here, including Tokyo Hands and Kinokuniya (see following entries). And the dining floors here (12th, 13th and 14th floors) offer the best selection of good and approachable restaurants in the city. Highly recommended!
  • Tokyu Hands Shinjuku (DIY/hobby/craft emporium)
    If you like to make things or are interested in science or just looking for a unique visit, I highly recommend this shop. It's one of the best DIY shops on the planet. It's in the Takashimaya Times Square complex. Highly recommended!
  • Kinokuniya (bookstore)
    Connected to the Takashimaya Times Square complex by a pedestrian footbridge, this is the biggest and best bookstore in Tokyo. The selection of English books on the 7th floor is excellent. There are also some books in other European languages.
  • Isetan Department Store (department store)
    In the Sanchome area of East Shinjuku, this is a great place to sample the wonders of a good Japanese department store. Don't miss the food floor. This is highly recommended.
  • Bingoya (Japanese crafts)
    Way out in East Shinjuku, near Wakamatsu-kawada subway station, this is a great emporium of traditional Japanese crafts, many of which make good souvenirs and gifts.
  • Disk Union (record/music store)
    This is one of the city's best record/music stores. It's in East Shinjuku.

Nightlife In Shinjuku

West Shinjuku (Shinjuku Nishi-Guchi)
  • New York Bar (Hyatt hotel bar with views)
    Put on some smart clothes and head up to this ultra-sexy hotel bar for a drink overlooking the city - it's famous as the one of the locations in the movie Lost In Translation.
  • Zoetrope (bar)
    A bit north of the station, this bar specializes in whisky and the selection is amazing. I recommend this place highly for fans of brown liquor.
East Shinjuku (Shinjuku Hagashi-Guchi)
  • Golden Gai (tiny bar neighborhood)
    I dig the Old Tokyo atmosphere in this neighborhood of tiny hole-in-the-wall bars. Just walk around and find a place that looks interesting. Be warned that some places are more welcoming than others.
  • Watering Hole (craft beer bar)
    One stop south of Shinjuku in Yoyogi, this is one of Tokyo's best bars. Come here to sample one of the city's best selections of craft beer. Recommended!
  • Shinjuku Nichome (gay area)
    Just east of Shinjuku-sanchome subway station, this is Tokyo's largest gay area. The area is full of bars and small clubs. Some places only admit men.
  • Shinjuku Pit Inn (bar)
    This place out in East Shinjuku is a gathering spot of Tokyo's serious jazz fans. It's highly recommended for jazz fans.
  • Loft (live music space)
    This live music space in East Shinjuku has been a fixture of the Tokyo music scene for years. The website is in Japanese, but you can usually make out what's on schedule.

Where Are These Places Located?

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